Archive for December, 2007

NYE MENU

Sunday, December 30th, 2007

New Year’s Eve 2007

Oysters Rockefeller spinach—fennel purée and glacage gratinée

Carolina Shrimp classic american sauce and freshly grated horseradish

NV Billecarte Salmon Brut Réserve

Waldorf Astoria Original Salad black walnuts and liberty duck

2004 Marcel Deiss Muscat D’Alsace

Northwest Potato Leek Soup petrossian white sturgeon caviar and chef cut chives

2005 Puffeney ‘Cuvée Les Bérangères’ Arbois

Perigord Truffle Ravioli herb jus, shaved almonds and fonduta

2005 Pira ‘Le Ombre’ Nebbiolo

Entrée Choice of:

Prime New York Strip “Oskar” peeky toe crab, braised salsify and cognac lobster demi 1999 Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabert Sauvignon

or

Maine Lobster Thermidor rocket and sauce cardinal

2006 Far Niente Chardonnay

Valrhona Chocolate Mousse madagascar vanilla crème chantilly

2000 Portos Barros L.B.V.

QUOTE

Friday, December 28th, 2007

“Do you like where we put this table? We saw it at a restuarant called CRAM in New York City”

Barney.

“Feta is off the hizzle!”

Thursday, December 27th, 2007

 -Quoth pinot pundit Kevin Furtado as we finished a round of cheese and wine pairings. A second experiment with pastry chef Kim Guertin and also superserver Anne Nagelvoort this time around with Meredith Farms Marinated Feta, Roomano and Crater Lake Blue matched with the Kunin ‘westerly’ sauv blanc, Heartland (Australian) cab, Jonesey port and South African Muscat. Here’s what happened… starting with sauv blanc and working aroung the lazy susan the feta registered a full hit. Herbaceous, fatty and acid reaction in two part harmony. The blue was a mismatch and an extreme contrast of flavors and the roomano just kind of there, no fireworks. Muscat up next and the Feta again rings bells and comes together, roomano was interesting, accentuating some of the carmelized and burnt flavors of this great unique cheese and the blue’s highlighted funky ash and bacterial flavors signalled another thumbs down. The cab was an overall miss with a so-so note on the Feta, which is proving very versatile and raising eyebrows. I imagined this to be more sympathetic with roomano, but was much deceived. Port comes last and  the classic blue and port pair is somewhat underwhelming, the two not quite making one, the roomano was better and the Feta, cheese of the day, makes a clean sweep and becomes a great pair once again. The double chocolate cake with the port made a stupendous pair, consummating an ideal match and blowing doors all around.  

Advice on K.furtado wines newsletter

Wednesday, December 26th, 2007

I think your letter is fine. Just sub colleagues for colleges and commas for semi colons. Brief is often best and getting across how personal and exciting the release of your wine is key, I think. May be a first vintage, but many years have led to you to this point. That this is a true highlight and milestone cannot be overstated. I can’t wait to see what happens when the cork comes out.  RF

Pumping Over-

Wednesday, December 26th, 2007

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chef’s table prepared by luke venner- wow.

Wednesday, December 26th, 2007

  Chef’s Table December 17, 2007 Saffron Potato Chipssage oil Chufa Nut Horchatakorenji cinnamon   Kumamoto Oysterguava air “Fire & Ice”hamachi and bigeye tuna tartar Maine Lobster Poached in “Sous Vide”curry emulsion and potato purée   Atlantic Cod and Manilla Clamsceleriac purée, sea beans and black truffles Torchon of Foie Grasgranny smith apples and candied cashews  Liberty Duck Breast and Leg Confit braised turnips, niçoise olives and citron gastrique  Ewephoria lavender honey  Warm Chocolate Cakepalisade cherries and espresso ice cream  

QUOTE

Sunday, December 23rd, 2007

“We help you sell more stuff to more people more often for more money more efficiently.”(tm)

thanks Sergio!

Check out the wines of Nicolas Joly!

Saturday, December 22nd, 2007

Statutes of the vineyards of Coulée de Serrant

An AOC is marked by its soil and its microclimate. In order for the vines to perfectly seize these originalities, we have adopted rigorous vineyard management methods (since ‘84 all of the vineyards are biodynamic).

- Compost on the vines ; this compost comes from our own herd of 10 cows (Nantaises, a rare breed – and Highlands, at home in wetlands) and two bulls to avoid artificial insemination which generates unbalance in the long term.  The cows are nourished the old-fashioned way with grain, beets and hay ; everything being essentially grown on the property. This feed, marked by the local environment produces a compost that is also adopted to the location. This compost is used for the biodynamic preparations.

- Natural cover crop ; over time a dozen different species of interesting native plants have grown up around the vines. This limits the negative effects of monoculture. In the absence of herbicides – systematically forbidden for over 20 years including between the rows – each root generates different microorganisms (mycorrhizae) that permit the vines to seize all of the soil’s subtilities. 

- Minimal plowing of the soil (covering and uncovering the rows) to avoid mixing the different soil strata. On the section worked by horses (1 ½ hectares) the vines are almost a century old and the soil is plowed completely.

 

 - Wintertime passage of a flock of Ouessant sheep in most of the vineyards.  This rustic breed feeds on the cover crop and converts it into manure ! In the springtime, a portable chicken coop is installed in the parcels where there are snails.

- Treatment of diseases by biodynamic preparations that reinforce the link between the vine and its archetypal form (disease is only a deficiency of health) and by regular doses of teas of different plants (sage, sorrel, willow, nettle, thuya, elm, oak bark, goemon, arnica, blackthorn, grande cousoude, etc.)  These are medicinal plants that come from the property for the most part, or the mountains where we harvest them on the auspicious date.

- A small amount of copper is used (Bordeaux mixture, 3 to 5 kg of pure copper per hectare per year). Certain parcels have not been treated for 3 years.  Copper is an oligoelement  essential to life. Sulfer is also used, it is also essential to life, but we are replacing it little by little by milk or whey (5 to 10 litres per hectare and per treatment) which is very active against oïdium and very healthy for the vines.

- Respect for the diversity of a environment ; to this end several hectares eligible for plantation in appellation remain wild or as open fields. The diversity of animal and plant life that results represents a source of harmony for the area and enriches the organic life of the soils, therefore the expression of the terroir effect.

- Utilisation of cuttings from our oldest vineyards to renew our vines. The vineyards have existed for almost 1000 years and it is important to conserve the typicity of our Chenins that are perfectly adapted to our own AOC, Coulée de Serrant. As opposed to a clone, it takes 6 years before a significant harvest !

- Severe pruning to limit the yield to 20 – 25 hectos / hectare on average each year, almost half of the authorized limit. This permits every vintage to achieve high levels and also to avoid chaptalization (not practiced at the Coulée in the last 15 years).

- Harvest in 3 to 5 passages over a period of 3 to 4 weeks to be sure that each bunch of grapes is at its optimal maturity.

All of these points concern our 3 wines and our 3 AOC.                

Wine…

Thursday, December 20th, 2007

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here is the 500L. barrel for K. FURTADO syrah- meandering through malolactic fermentation at CCWS.

Crazy time of year!

Thursday, December 20th, 2007

Table 211 ordered our last bottle of ‘98 Dom Perignon for Kir Royal’s tonight.  I thought I had seen it all…

Happy Holidays!