it is just grapejuice

“In heaven all the interesting people are missing.”

Friedrich Nietzsche

I am not sure why I decided on a bottle of Chilean viognier, but I was in a hurry and had never tried (or imagined) a South American version. Viognier, at least in my glass, is very hit and miss but I am ever the gambler. The bottle I purchased was Cono Sur, a prolific label with bottle production in the millions and an ambitious array of varietal offerings as well. Don’t let the big name and numbers sway you… this is by no means the industrial manufactured juice for the diletente at a fair price. This example of viognier was somewhere between France and California with it’s generosity and prudence. Fantastically balanced, haunted by earth and steady in stonefruit with a slight backing of small, neutral oak… enough to still be lean and hang a tight curve in a blind evaluation.
Ed Flaherty is the winemaker, a california native with a large affection for Burgundy. No pesticides are used and livestock graze, keep unwanted pests to a minimum and also contribute to the soil compost. The pinot vineyard in Chimbarongo is noted for it’s cool climate and rolling fog, however, fruit is sourced all the way up to the Casablanca valley for the numerous varietal botlings he makes. The pinot is “clean, complex…and enjoyably risk free” (MWaldin)
and the gewurtz, syrah and cabernets have earned acclaim as well. If any are as attractive as the viognier, they are well worth the drinking at twice the price.

RF

Monday after the mountain closes there is suddenly a lot more cooler places to hang out than in the Vail valley. Those of us who stay rely on the cache of wine bought and stored during the fatter months or hunt for modest bottles at a considerably more modest price. Under $10 one can get a decent Argentinian malbec or Spanish garnacha, possibly a good cotes-du-rhone… this was my thinking as I ignored entire rows of Bordeaux and Burgundy. The wine of the month at Beaver liquors was too good to be true. A Yecla blend of (50%)monastrell, (20%) syrah, (20%) tempranillo, and (10%) merlot called, simply, ‘Carro’ with a stark yellow ochre label and uninteresting drawing of a pullcart in the center. Mr Parker “only” scored this bottle a 90 because he didn’t want his readers to think he had gone nuts. For eight dollars I could afford to be curious and I think I found my May wine. A mellow, harmonious blend with soft juicy center, restraint, complexity. Not only the various grape characteristics, but also some crushed rocks and dry dust comes across. Fruit and dirt, not too much of either. Easygoing and good with a range of simple food like bread, cheese, anything… a good darkhorse to match up blind against some of the finer spanish blends.

RF

Check out this fun wine game, if it doesn’t increase your wine knowledge then you are truly an expert. If you get the keys to the cellar please e-mail me, I have never met anyone who has!!
http://www.bbr.com/US/wine-knowledge/game.lml?ID=2VHXB2Z5MJ700B5#

It is a great office!

APRIL 14, 2007

DUNGENESS CRAB CAKE
la venture farms tat soi and vinaigre de citron
NV Ruinart Brut

LA VENTURE FARMS ORGANIC GREENS
baby turnip and baby radish
‘03 Josmeyer ‘The Dragon’ Riesling

VENETIAN RISOTTO
pea tendrils and pea beurre fondue
‘04 Blanc de Lynch-Bages

WILD IRISH SALMON
sauté of porcini mushrooms and baby bok choy
‘04 Albert Morot Beaune Theurons 1er Cru

DRY AGED NEW YORK
crispy potatoes gratin and cabernet reduction
‘01 Ducru—Beaucaillou

GREAT HILL BLUE CHEESE
fig sesame dressed micro greens and crostini

VALRHONA CHOCOLATE CAKE
raspberry sauce and coconut ice cream

APRIL 6, 2007

CRISPY CRAB CAKE
la’ venture farms pea tendrils and citronette

nv ruinart blanc de blancs

LA’ VENTURE MIXED GREENS
baby turnip and baby radish

2003 josmeyer ‘The Dragon’ Riesling

DUCK CONFIT LASAGNA
farm egg nage

2005 Zmor Gewurtraminer

SHORT RIB BEEF WELLINGTON
veal demi-glace and sautéed spinach

2004 Albert Morot Beaune Theurons 1er Cru

CERTIFIED ANGUS BEEF TENDERLOIN
sauce perigourdine , potato mousseline and fresh truflles

2004 Mendel ‘Unus’ Malbec/Cabernet

MEREDITH FARMS MARINATED FETA
kalamata olive crostini and roasted red pepper salad

2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Ethos’ Riesling

BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ
hazelnut mousse and caramelized cocoa nib

1950 Kopke colheita port
(more…)

4/3/07

04 Jayer Gilles Bourgogne Haut Cote du Nuits-
Wonderful fruit forward ’04 Red Burgundy. IMHO, an underrated vintage all the way around and represent some great value right in the market right now.

02 Towmy Merlot Napa Valley-
Parker was right; this wine is a ‘sex pot’…layers of fruit and richness which are defined with some structure. This is a first rate Californian style Merlot.

05 Brewer Clifton ‘Sea Smoke Vineyard’ Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills-
To my knowledge, BC is the only other winery besides Sea Smoke to make chardonnay from this esteemed vineyard. The wine weighs in at 16.4% alcohol and you can hardly tell. It has wonderful balance and more length then width.

05 Lemmelson ‘Jerome Reserve’ Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
A bit of a bummer…it was my first experience with this vintage. I suspect it was probably a bit shut down and will improve with some bottle age- hopefully.